Did this 1977 ‘Texas Monthly’ article declare Austin the breakfast taco war winner before it even began?

Tacos La Guera moved to South Lamar Boulevard without much fanfare, but its tacos are worth following. Photos by Addie Broyles
Tacos La Guera moved to South Lamar Boulevard without much fanfare, but its tacos are worth following. Photos by Addie Broyles

Austin is the capital of a few things. Most importantly Texas, but also live music, bats, population growth and sweatiness. And, according to a “Texas Monthly” article from nearly 40 years ago, “When it comes to Mexican breakfasts, it is certainly the capital of the state.”

Take note that this declaration was made after a sentence that asserts, “For many people, Austin is more closely identified with Mexican food in Texas than San Antonio.”

The article, entitled “From Mexico With Love,” explores the different Mexican restaurants and food styles various Texas cities have to offer and identifies the cuisine as the “fastest-growing segment” in the restaurant business. Although the article recognizes San Antonio as the city where “Mexican food restaurants in Texas took hold and where good Mexican food still survives,” it clarifies that it has only one “serious attempt at classical interior Mexico cuisine” and the majority of its offerings are “strictly Tex-Mex.”

When author Richard West gets to Austin he begins to list locations that solidify the city’s “best Mexican breakfast” claim with their “pan dulce, huevos rancheros, migas and huevos con chorizo” offerings. This includes spots like Matt’s El Rancho and La Reyna Bakery, and now closed Casita Jorge’s (the “hangover cure, menudo” at which is best “washed down nice­ly with a Tecate).

Although the article fails to mention current Austin favorites like Juan in a Million or Torchy’s, it is because the city did not yet know the pleasure of a “Don Juan” pile or the brisket breakfast “Wrangler” taco.

Although the article was published long before the first shots were fired in what would become a very-drawn-out breakfast taco war, it’s clear the Mexican food rivalry between the two Central Texas cities is not unfounded. It’s also clear, at long last (and maybe for the fourth time), who the winner is and has always been.

Not you, San Antonio.

EXPLORE: Take a taco tour around Austin

READ: President Obama stops at Torchy’s Tacos in South Austin

Author: Staff Writer

The Consumer Systems Application Support team maintains this wordpress blog to provide information and support for the CMG Media Websites and other digital publishing applications.

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